Sardinhas Assadas: Algarve's Summer Soul

Walk through any Portuguese coastal town in summer, and you'll be hit by the irresistible aroma of sardines grilling on charcoal. This is the smell of Portuguese summer—simple, smoky, and utterly authentic.

Sardine season peaks in June during the Festas de Lisboa, celebrating Santo António. The streets of Alfama fill with smoke as vendors grill thousands of sardines. They're served on a slice of bread (to soak up the juices), with roasted peppers and a cold beer.

In the Algarve, especially in fishing villages like Olhão and Lagos, grilled sardines are a year-round staple. The fish are incredibly fresh—often caught the same morning—and need nothing more than coarse salt and high heat.

The beauty of sardinhas assadas lies in their simplicity. Fresh sardines, salt, charcoal, and skilled hands turning them at just the right moment. Served with boiled potatoes, a simple salad, and crusty bread, it's peasant food elevated to art.